Imagine a dapper man in evening dress, smoking a cigarette as he saunters down the sidewalk. When he raises the cigarette to his lips, a watch catches the light emitted from the streetlamps—not round like most watches, but a rectangle with distinctive lugs. Chances are, if you were to take a closer look, you’d think that the name on the dial would say “Cartier”…
… but it might as well say Rolex.
True, square or rectangular watches have long been the province of Cartier, ever since the first Cartier Tank was released in 1917. But Rolex has been offering rectangular watches in its catalogs since the 1920s, alongside those with round, waterproof “Oyster” cases that have become synonymous with Rolex. Marketed as “gent’s elegant models,” these square watches serve as a counterpoint to the sporty watches that many associate with the manufacture.
Of course, Rolex’s most famous rectangular watch is the Prince. Introduced in 1928, the Prince was available in two styles: Classic and Brancard. The Classic was a svelte rectangle, while the Brancard had flared lugs. Before long, the Prince became a recognizable name, and was also known as the “doctor’s watch” due to its large seconds hand.
As with all of its watches, Rolex continued to develop and improve upon the model, and it remained a mainstay in Rolex’s collection until it was discontinued a few years ago.
However, despite the popularity of the Prince, Rolex manufactured other rectangular watches that hold their own outside any particular line. Take the watch that we offer here, for instance. Its rectangular case has fancy scalloped lugs, reminiscent of those found on Princes in the Brancard style, and when viewed on its side it’s apparent that the case curves to the wrist.
While we love Rolex’s sports models, watches like this one represent the diversity of style that the Crown has always embraced. Though dress codes have shifted along with changing tastes, and men are more likely to opt for a sport coat over a full tuxedo when dressing for dinner, this watch would look good with either. Strapped on leather, it exudes the kind of refinement that never goes out of style.